NYFW: Inside Look
As a fashion photographer based in New York City, I have zero interest or knowledge in fashion other than what I experience firsthand or from my observations. But I live and work for the glamor, hence my profession. I was invited by Vogue Magazine to shoot my second season for NYFW, and here are some things I saw.
By Kate Kim
There was a huge diversity in the models that were casted this season.
Working in fashion has taught me that it can be a very superficial industry. However, I was surprised to see this season, the diversity of models that were casted for fairly big shows. I saw a number of trans-models, a model with prosthetics, pregnant, albino, plus size models, and even drag queens. I want to say Fashion Week is slowly changing and becoming more open to a rather realistic body types and gender/sexual orientations.
Backstage: the calm before the storm
There are many trivial things that actually go on before the show, and being backstage is in one word, chaotic. Even so, in the two seasons I worked NYFW, I have yet to see any mishap or models throwing a fit.
To explain, a number of models (especially the famous ones) walk for almost all of the big name shows. I once finished shooting a show, and traveled together with the same models from that show, to the next. This means some models only have 1 hour or less to get their make up, hair, nails, fitting, and rehearsal done; that’s not enough time!
I love photographing the energy back stage. I would say the models do a very professional job of keeping their shit together, despite the number of photographers/videographers harassing them, and being rushed from one sitting to another.
Let’s talk about how much Money was spent in Creating these shows!
Fashion week is more than just fashion itself; it a presentation and expression.
Here is how much that expression costs according to Business Insider:
Venue: $0 to $100,000
Hair and Makeup: $0 to $100,000
Stylist: $5,000 to $20,000
Public Relations: $10,000 to $25,000 for a monthly retainer
Models: $0 to $200,000
Lighting: $10,000 on up
Invitations: $5,000 on up
“Designer Anna Sui said: "Every season I think about moving, but frankly, economically, the tents make sense."
More expensive venues include the New York Public Library, where the Marchesa line showed this season. The historic location's rental fees start at $50,000.”
The bold statements made this season
Like I mentioned, I have no idea what is considered good in fashion, but I love a good presentation. For every '“good” show this season, the creative director had a theme or powerful message to pull across their audience. Let me give you a succinct summary of my interpretation:
Alice and Olivia: Stacey Benedet loves making very powerful and extravagant statements. This season, she chose to have her usual presentation by Chelsea Piers, accompanied by a boat! The show was divided into different sections; each presenting a different cities. As always, she made a Benedet Wonderland of the whole presentation and the boat, which had the famous design of her face.
Anna Sui: Anna Sui was one of my favorites this season in terms of putting on a show. With inspiration from the movie/music Kismet, the runway was designed for the guests to interact with garments and even had items for sale. In terms of the show, models were very doll-like, and instead of walking straight down the runway, they were interacting with the set.
Calvin Klein: Raf SImons, creative director of Calvin Klein, used inspiration from the films Jaws and The Graduate. The set was almost like a fish tank, with a blue background, and red carpet. The outfits actually consisted of graduation hats, and printed tees of the cover of Jaws.
Jeremy Scott: Jeremy Scott chose to make both a fashion and political statement this season, with words like ‘Riot’, ‘Peace‘, ‘Resist’, and ‘Revolt’ in his pieces.
Kate Spade: Nicola Glass, the new creative director, subtly paid homage to the Founder of Kate Spade. The whole venue which took place in New York Public Library, was colored lilac. The mood of the music and clothing were a little bubbly, and very lifting. The cards at every seat read, “She left a little sparkle everywhere she went.” and “In Loving Memory 1962–2018.”, for Spade who passed away in June.
Ralph Lauren: Ralph Lauren celebrated 50 years of his brand, by renting out the central park, and inviting over 200 guests, consisting of famous celebrities. Lauren presented over 100 looks; the designs reflecting the older colors of his brand.